One might think that there would be few opportunities to visit religious institutions in mainland China--or at least other than those that are historically significant (we've seen that China is proud of much of its historical heritage going back thousands of years). But we've encountered a variety of temples (Buddhist, Confucian, Taoist), churches (Catholic and Protestant, and even one Russian Orthodox), and mosques here in Shanghai. Most are currently active, some with resident monks or nuns, most with local visitors who come to worship in their way.
In the photo to the right, we see the Fazangjiang Buddhist Temple. When I (Bruce) visited, both the resident monks and local worshippers were busy with their respective activities. As with most places of worship, the city has grown up around even the most historic locations, so it's common to see centuries-old sites surrounded by towering new buildings (many 21st century).
I'm slowly getting a sense for some of the rythyms in temple worship for local visitors. Nearly all seem to come for a relatively brief period, singly or with a friend, to pray before the statue of Buddha, or other related figures (such as the Goddess of Mercy). Some offer a few coins or bills in the offering box in front of the cushions upon which worshippers kneel.
I realize this sort of observation is superficial, even if I'm often feeling moved by the beauty of the moment, the architecture of the temple, the attitude of the worshippers, and the need many of us feel to connect with something larger or more meaningful in some private and daily moments in our lives. But I feel out of my depth in trying to actually convey what's going on for people who at least for a few moments choose to make temple worship an important time in their life, and what it might mean in any theological sense.
Here we see the Taoist temple in Suzhou, which dates back to 276 A.D. In our experience, Taoist temples feature a far greater range of images, usually large statues, some gentle, some fierce guardians, some wise; there may be dozens or more. Some temples are dedicated to the worship of important historical figures, such as a general who protected the town in long-age times, to whom current requests for help may still be brought. Burning some incense seems more common in these temples (by worshippers). Both Taoist and Buddhist temples seem peaceful during ordinary days.
To the right is a photo of the main altar at the Catholic Cathedral built in Shanghai in the 1840's, during the time when Western powers sought "concessions" of parts of the increasingly busy port of Shanghai to gain a share of the lucrative trade in eastern goods. (Such transfers of land and local political authority were not voluntary for the Chinese, and made China a semi-colony until concessions were finally abolished a century later in the 1940's).
My visit to this church was interesting partly because most of the land around the church has recently been bulldozed for modern building projects, and it appeared I wouldn't gain access to the cathedral itself. But I noticed that one door in the wall was ajar, and meekly let myself through. And after wandering about I found a pair of older women cooking up something for the day's lunch. I motioned an interest in seeing the church, and one had the key to the church doors and kindly let me in. I appreciated have some very quiet moments to explore and sit. The panels above the altar are the key moments in the Christian story; like much of the art in European cathedrals, they make more visual the story that those in the pews would not have been able to read.
The old French Catholic Church in the photo to the left is part of the town of Qibao, one of the older "canal towns" important in cotton growing and export which we explored one day. It dates back to 1867, and so also goes back to the time of the early concession period of Shanghai's history. It's still actively used, and the doors were unlocked the day Barbara and I visited--no one was around, but like churches in Europe is often left open for anyone who wishes to sit or pray for a few moments during a busy day. All the literature in the church is in Chinese; I assume these churches would no longer be considered "mission" churches.
To the right is the sanctuary of the Mu-en Church, long a Methodist Church in the heart of downtown Shanghai designed by a famous European architect, and now a non-denominational church and the largest Protestant congregation in the city. I attended the Sunday morning service one day (the photo was taken after its conclusion; I'm reluctant to take pictures of a religious service itself). As a former Methodist I could follow things, though all the hymns, readings, and the sermon were in Chinese. One of the young ushers, and the man sitting new to me, kindly helped me figure out where we were in the service. Interestingly, the church has a woman pastor.
And I think I'll wrap up here. More in a future blog on our visit to a mosque during Ramadan, and to the Jewish Refugees Museum (at the synagogue which sat at the center of the neighborhood here which helped take in Jews fleeing Nazi Germany whom Britain and the U.S. were unwilling to accept).
Our time here is nearing an end, but we'll keep our little feet walking, and add a few more posts before we go. Thanks for reading! Bruce and Barbara
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